Nissan Quest Type Radios - Removal

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NOTE DISCLAIMER: I will not accept liability for anyone's repair attempts. This information is posted for informational purposes only. Don't try this without proper training. Any repair attempts are at your own risk. It may not be the same problem that mine had. Don't hold me financially liable to any damage or expenses you may incur. This fix suggestion is not meant to put anyone's audio repair business out of business, etc,...

Figure 1 - '02 Nissan Quest

If you have one of these types of Nissan Quest (or Mercury Villager or Ford Windstar), then you may likely have one of the radios shown in Figure 2...and even more likely to be experiencing the blank display problem (and possible the CD eject problems). The following are the first steps to getting your radio working again. Once you have the radio out of the dash, then you may want to consider the Save My Sanity Swap program or the Do-It-Yourself repair...either way, once you have the radio out of the dash, you've practically done the hardest part of getting your radio fixed.

Figure 2 - '02 Nissan Quest
(same for Mercury Villager or Ford Windstar)

Figure 2 shows the neat feature of this radio in which the RDS feature is showing the artist (Weezer) of the song playing...you too, can see this, once you get your display fixed.

Getting your Radio out of a Nissan Quest (or Mercury Villager or Ford Windstar)

The first step to the radio repair is to remove the cup holder / ashtray from the dash. This is done by pushing in the two buttons (one on each side) as indicated in Figure 3 below.

Figure 3 - Removing Drink Tray / Ash Tray

Figure 4 - Tray Removed

Use your index finger to push in the buttons in on each side of the ashtray and then pull the tray out...it should slide all the way out of the panel.

Figure 5 - Remove Two Screws

Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws, one on each side, holding the front panel in place.

Figure 6 - Pry Panel Loose

With the screws removed, position your fingers in the seam above the A/C vents where the panel connects to the dash. With a little luck, you should be able to pull this portion of the panel from the dash. It takes an action that pivots the panel at the bottom (below the ashtray) where it connects to the bottom. So, pull from the top, while pivots below where it connects.

Figure 7 - Panel Pivot

So, pull from the top, while pivoting below where it connects, as shown in Figure 7.

Figure 8 - Interlocking Tabs

In Figure 8, the pink arrows point to the interlocking tabs of the front dash. There are slots in the front panel (that you are trying to remove) that hook onto the tabs. Once you get the top loose and pulled from the dash, you should be able to push the bottom of the panel in (label step 1 in figure 8), then lift up and out (step 2 in figure 8). Your panel should be free to set aside.

Figure 9 - Radio Screws

Remove the 4 screws shown in Figure 9 and then you should be able to slide your radio out of the dash (but it will still be connected to the wires within the dash)

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Figure 10 - Back of Radio Connectors
(this is actually a picture from an Explorer, but the layout is the same buy you won't have the white plastic piece...if you are that detailed oriented to notice that)

Figure 10 shows the three connectors and the antennae coax connection that needs to be removed. NOTE: You may only have TWO Connectors if your vehicle doesn't have a powered subwoofer...so don't be alarmed of you only have two plus the antennae. The order in which I remove these are numbered...first the antennae coax is disconnected, followed by the three connectors (installation is the reverse process...4, 3,2,1). Note that the connectors have tabs on them which need to be depressed to be able to pull the connector out of the radio.

You should now have your radio out of the dash...you can move on to the Fix!

DID YOU FIND THESE INSTRUCTIONS USEFUL?

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If you are just using this site for the information to remove your radio and have found this information useful, then please consider giving a contribution to the effort and the time taken from my kids to get these directions together (and to help defray the hosting fees incurred to keep this information posted). PayPal makes it easy to contribute $3 or whatever you feel is appropriate:

Thanks!

D. Harrison

HERE ARE THE AVAILABLE FIXES FOR THE RADIO SHOWN ABOVE IN FIGURE 2:

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the Radio Repair Access
(for Blank Display or Volume Control Repair Instructions)
$19.99

CD EJECT ERROR ACCESS (Ford/Nissan)

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the CD Eject Error Access
(For CD Eject Error Repair Instructions - separate cost from the display and volume control repair listed above)
$19.99

COMBO REPAIR - DISPLAY/VOLUME CONTROL/CD EJECT ERROR ACCESS
(Ford/Nissan)

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the
Combo Display/Volume/CD Eject Error Access
$29.99

"Save My Sanity" Swap Board

For the "Save My Sanity" Swap Program, you submit $104.99 (= $84.99 +$20) through PayPal or you can mail a check (the extra $20 is used as a deposit for your old board, making your cost $84.99), a tested, working, reconditioned board with all the modifications made will be sent to you. You will be given access to a special location of the radio repair web site that has detailed pictures on how to go about swapping your board. Once you get the board, you swap out your board with the one sent. You then return your board. Once your board is received, you'll get refunded $20...making your cost only $84.99.

If you split your PayPal contributions up into an $84.99 payment and a $20 payment, I can use the refund option of PayPal to refund your $20, saving the PayPal fee of $0.88, as long as I get your board back within 30 days to exercise the refund option of PayPal. If I don't get your board back within the 30 days, I will still refund your $20 (via PayPal or check, which ever way you paid).

What the swap program does for you is:

*You don't have to do the detailed soldering and trouble shooting.

*You get a known working board that has all the modifications to it so that you won't experience this again

*If the board is not your problem, then just ship it back for a refund.

*You don't have to go without your radio (if you were going to ship it off for repairs).

Before going this route, please be sure that you are comfortable at the dis-assembly and re-assembly that is required to replace the board...it basically requires removing three screws, popping off the front display panel (may require a small screw driver to assist), popping off the top metal panel of the radio, then twisting two metal tabs with a needle nose pliers. If you are okay with that (I will send the specific instructions including pictures to replace the board), then you are set to proceed with the swap program.

This replacement board is for a MACH radio (also used in various Ford vehicles and Nissan Quest)...the part number on the radio should be something like "XXXX-18C868-XX" where the X's can be any type of combination...the "18C868" should be there on this type of radio. You may want to verify this.

If this seems like something you want to try, then you can submit your contribution to PayPal and let me know the address to ship the board to.

Click one of the above Icons to Purchase the "Save My Sanity" Swap Board
$84.99+$20 Refundable Deposit = $104.99

Or you can split your contribution into $84.99 and $20 (so that the "refund" option of PayPal can be used to refund your deposit...getting back your PayPal fees on the $20 deposit)...use the icons below to do the two part payment:

"Save My Sanity" Swap Board

Please provide any type of feedback on these procedures. I'm always interested in feedback to improve for others.

Regards,

Duane Harrison
dharrison@ab-tech-inc.com

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